Category Archives: Tutorial

Shabby Chic Back to School – Vintage School Desk Makeover

Vintage Shabby Chic School Desk Makeover

Vintage Shabby Chic School Desk Makeover

Vintage School Desk Commission for a Shabby Chic Makeover

We, as parents, are all relieved with a new school year beginning. Children, on the other hand, are not happy at all. Perhaps it is a good idea to sparkle their life with a Shabby Chic bits of their own history? Such an idea got to us a customer with old, rusty, old-fashioned school table – with a request for makeover for 11-year old daughter.

 

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How to make Shabby Chic Furniture #2: Texture – VIDEO TUTORIAL

How to create rich two colour texture

how to create rich two colour texture on shabby chic furniture

Creating Shabby Chic texture on furniture

Finally we have found some time to put together video tutorial on the technique we use for creating texture on our furniture. This video corresponds with an article we posted long time ago about comparing textures on two shabby chic nest of tables.

We had quite few questions regarding this technique, so there it is – a visual explanation. We hope you will find it useful.
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Water Slide Decals: Transfer Complex Print to Furniture – VIDEO TUTORIAL

How to transfer big and complex print with water slide decals

water slide decal print transfer to furniture tutorial

Water Slide Decal Print Transfer to Furniture

We have a lot questions regarding our water slide decals and techniques we use to transfer prints with them. That is why we decided to make a video tutorial on this subject.

In fact this is the last part of tutorial on making Shabby Chic Furniture with print, however we starting to publish it backwards. The next part will cover the methods we use to make a texture using Annie Sloan’s chalk paints. Read More

From Trash to Posh – Shabby Chic Custom Restoration (Drawer Chest no. 07)

How we did it: Custom Shabby Chic Makeover with Print

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In this post I would like to present you the way we gone through to restore to life the old and neglected chest of drawers. Bear in mind: it is not a DIY (Do-It-Yourself) tutorial, it is rather DIM (Done-It-Myself) story.

Below you can see the subject of this topic – almost dead body before against the results of our shabby chic restoration works after. Read More

How to fix broken table top without any tools – DIY tutorial

Repairing broken furniture without tools

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Before the start I have to clarify some facts.

First of all: this is not a tutorial about repairing a table top; it is about a top of a dresser.
Second: this is not a tutorial at all; rather than ‘how-to-do-it’ this thing is more ‘how-I-did-it’ guidance based on my own experience.

And third, the last: you cannot fix a dresser top without any tools, I am afraid; you will need at least screwdriver.
All the above are just to pick up a search engine optimisation and attract more readers (boy, how cheeky are we). But it does not change a fact that we want to share very useful tips with you. Having this cleared let’s start.
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How to transfer print onto wood – PVA glue (Mod Podge replacement) method

PVA Glue Print Transfer (Mod Podge Substitute)

In this tutorial I will present a way to transfer inkjet print onto wood or furniture.

I am not going to show anything new or super-innovative, this technique is widely known, and you can find a lot of examples of using it on hobby & craft websites, however – in most cases – it is known as a Mod Podge technique. Which I personally find very annoying, mostly because of the price you must to pay to buy a small jar of Mod Podge.

After small investigation I discovered, that Mod Podge is nothing more than PVA glue, the one you can buy for ‘next to nothing’ in any stationary store with school equipment. So I started there. After some trial and error process I end up with a way which works fine for me. The results are satisfying, and you can see them on our Wooden Plaques with Print page.

So here it is: How to Transfer Print onto Wood in 5 Easy steps.

1. What you need

PVA Glue Print Transfer (Mod Podge Substitute) - What you need

The glue I found at the end of my research is a regular contractors PVA glue, bought in B&Q (DIY and home improvement store). Apart from this you need:

  • an ordinary photocopy transparency film (format A4, the same as a regular printing paper),
  • a brush and
  • a plank, or any other wooden surface you want to transfer your print onto. You need some sort of
  • sticky tape also, I use just regular paper masking tape.

The transparency film you see on the image above was used by me many times before. I sanded one side just to break a little a smoothness of the surface. It is just matter of taste. You do not have to do it, as the glue after getting dry becomes very smooth and shiny – it is ok if you like it, but I was looking for more distressed finish.

2. Preparing the printing sheet

PVA Glue Print Transfer (Mod Podge Substitute) - Preparing the printing sheet

This part is straightforward and involves only three steps:

  • spill it,
  • smear it (use the brush),
  • dry it.

The film must dry completely. As you can see on the picture above, initially white glue becomes transparent after drying.

Once it dries, you are ready to print your design on it.

3. Preparing the plank

PVA Glue Print Transfer (Mod Podge Substitute) - Preparing the plank

I will not cover the printing itself in this article. If you need any tips in this subject, check my previous tutorial about transferring the print using water decals. Just remember about one most important thing: you must print your design in a MIRROR REFLECTION. This is crucial.

PLEASE NOTE: This method is suitable with inkjet printers only. It will not work with laser printers.

Once you are done with printing, give the transparency film an hour or so, to make sure that ink dries completely.

Start with placing the image on the board and aligning to the desired position. Lay the sheet printed side down, you should see in front of you correct (not mirrored) image. Once it placed as you wanted to, strap the film with paper masking tape (I use this kind of tape to avoid struggling with removing it afterwards, but you can use actually any kind of tape). You will secure the sheet only from one side, to make it possible to flip it over and then to put back in precisely the same position as before.

So you do: you flip the film over and apply a layer of contractors PVA glue to the plank. You smear it accurately over the surface and then you carefully put your design back in the place.

4. Attaching the image

PVA Glue Print Transfer (Mod Podge Substitute) - Attaching the image

Starting from attached end of your film slowly lay it down rubbing it across the page during the process, to remove all air bubbles. Try not to slide the page, as it may smudge the ink.

Once you are done remove the tape.

This is basically it. The first ‘wet’ phase of the transfer is done. Now you need to leave your plank until it dries up. You must be patient as this may take from couple of hours up to couple of days; it depends on humidity of the wood. If the plank was taken out of a dry attic, where it was resting for a long time, couple of hours will do. However, if you just salved it from the rainy London street and covered with 3 layers of paint, the process will be considerably longer.

Your indicator is the appearance of the PVA glue. You will notice that after laying back your image on the wet glue layer, the sheet is losing the transparency gained after initial drying up. Now it is milky opaque – so you want to wait until it become transparent once again.

5. Removing the film

PVA Glue Print Transfer (Mod Podge Substitute) - Removing the film

The plank I used in this tutorial was properly dry, so in the evening (after 5 -6 hours) I could get my hands dirty once again.
Wedge the film from one corner and pull. If everything is as it should be you will not have any problems with that. However – if you can feel any resistance putting up by the film, that means it is not dry enough. You need to wait some more. Leave it over night or so.

If you are lucky, whole layer of glue will come off the sheet – this way you can avoid cleaning the film after the job.
The last thing is to take a sanding paper and remove the access of the dried glue from the edges of your plank. You may want to sand the whole surface as well, to make it evenly smooth. When you are happy with the result, you may want to protect your work with the clear wax or polyurethane varnish. I would not try an acrylic varnish, as it is water based and may damage the surface.

That is it. As I said in the beginning of this tutorial, you may see my results on Wooden Plaques with Print.

And below you can find out how the plaque looks after heavy sanding, which revealed colourful layers of paint from underneath.

PVA Glue Print Transfer (Mod Podge Substitute) - Final effect

How to make Shabby Chic Furniture with print –
transfer of print onto furniture or wood, part 2

There it is – a second part of tutorial on making Shabby Chic Furniture by transferring a print onto it.
After you have prepared, printed and cut out your design, you need to prepare a surface you will transfer on.

 

3. Preparing your decal – cutting out

Preparing the decal you can follow two paths: easy or difficult. Like with every thing in life, easy path is less time-consuming, but results with not-so-great final effect. Difficult path takes some time to finish, but effect you achieve is worth of trying.

What I mean is – you can make the transfer without any cutting out, but then you leave a vast of unprinted plastic on the surface of your table. And that is visible at a certain angle. The more effort you put in cutting your print out, the more authentic your print will be.

I always try to cut out the image dividing it to as many elements as it is possible, trying to get rid of all transparency I can. Doing that, leave little (approx. 1mm width) margin around printed parts of paper.

 

water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_11

water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_12 water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_13 water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_14

 

4. Preparing your surface

In this case I will transfer my image onto a top of one of nesting tables. It was previously painted with two Annie Sloan’s chalk paints, gently distressed and varnished.

The last step (varnishing) is highly important, especially when working with chalk paints (or bare wood) – unprotected surfaces are likely to leave dirty marks in contact with water.

My choice of varnish is acrylic Colron’s ‘Interior Lacquer’.

water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_15
water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_03

 

5. Preparing the layout

In this step we are going to rebuild a layout of our design. You need to put your cut-out elements on the table top in desirable order, just to reconstruct original layout.

The best way to do it (well, at least the best working for me) is to use a template of your design printed on paper. You need to cut the print out in one piece and align on the surface.

To do that use a ruler for precise / symmetrical alignment, and a pencil for marking position of edges and corners. This speeds up a whole process.

You will erase these pencil marks afterwards, when table top gets wet (it is easier to use a rubber on moistened surface).

water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_16
water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_17water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_18water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_19awater-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_19b

6. Transferring the decal

Now it is time to get wet.

Having all elements marked on the table, remove them into a safe place and bring on the water tray.

1. Dipping the decal into a water
The decal does not have to stay in water for long. I literally put it there for four – five seconds, just making sure there are no dry parts left. When you take it out from the water, after like half a minute, the bottom layer of paper will soak with water and dissolve glue. You can feel then the decal itself can be slid easily.

Be careful however, and do not leave it for too long in the water, otherwise the decal may completely unstuck form paper, ruining your work.

water decal transfer print onto wood furniture

 

2. Sliding decal off the paper
Before you start – sprinkle table top with a water to make sliding easier.

Now lay down the decal – find appropriate markings and put the paper one inch lower (vertically) keeping horizontal alignment. Now you want to slide it back on accurate, marked position. The trick is to slide it off roughly a half way, position as required, and then – gently pressing decal to the surface – carefully pull off the layer of paper from underneath.

Do not throw away this paper; you will use it in a second for smoothing the decal.

This is a good moment for using a rubber to erase first pencil marks.

water decal transfer print onto wood furniture
water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture

 

3. Removing the water – drying up
The next important thing is to release water remaining between the table and the decal. To do it, take a piece of wet paper you removed from underneath your image just a moment ago. Fold it in four leaving slippery side facing outside. Now you can use it to smoothing surface of your decal.

Your aim is to get rid of as much water as you can. If you do not do this – your image will not stick properly. After that – dry up the surface with paper towel.

water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture

 

4. Repeating above steps for rest of bigger elements
We are almost there. Right now you need to repeat all this steps for remaining elements of your design.

The same way to make grapes ornament (just take extra caution with the thinnest parts of image)…

water decal transfer print onto wood furniture
water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture

 

…and for the lettering.

water decal transfer print onto wood furniture
water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture

 

At last you can finish the finest elements.

water decal transfer print onto wood furniture
water decal transfer print onto wood furniture water decal transfer print onto wood furniture

 

7. Finishing – varnish

When you finished, it is good to leave the piece for a day in warm dry place, just to make sure there is no water or moist remaining under the decal.

Your last step will be covering the table top with layer of protection, in my case – clear acrylic varnish.

Here you have a final effect.

water-decal-transfer-print-onto-wood-furniture_touch-the-wood_00

 

That is it.

I hope you find this tutorial helpful. If happens that you use my tips and advices, why do not you send me an image with your work? And if you have any questions or comments – do not hesitate to use comment form below, I will be happy to help or know what you think.

And at last – forgive me any linguistic ‘cock-ups’, English is not my first language.